Songkok Making

A headgear for all occasions

 

The Songkok, a slightly oblong headgear, is commonly worn by men of all ages in the Malay Archipelago. It is common to see Malay men in Singapore wear the Songkok for a variety of occasions such as weddings, state functions, religious events or even funerals. The common color is black, a color suitable for most occasions.

 

It is also not unusual to see modifications made to the Songkok. Customers sometimes choose to decorate their Songkok by adding accessories such as gold ornaments, sewing them onto the headgear. Men who have performed the pilgrimage to Mecca usually wear the white Songkok, also known as the Songkok Haji. According to the fifth pillar of Islam, every able Muslim should endeavor to make a pilgrimage (haj) to the Holy Land of Mecca in Saudi Arabia.

 

Once a local thriving business

 

Although the Songkok is still widely worn by Malay men in Singapore today, the trade of handmade Songkok is in decline. Most of the Songkok available in Singapore are imported from neighboring countries such as Indonesia and Malaysia, which produce the Songkok in bulk in factories. However, this was not always the case. Singapore, under the rule of the British, was once the centre of pilgrim traffic between 1850 and1900 due to the strict restrictions placed on travel by the Dutch colonial masters in neighboring lands such as Java and Sumatra. Malays of varied sub-ethnic origins from neighboring lands would make a stop over in Singapore, often to work and raise funds for the trip to Mecca.

 

The large numbers of Malay men and women from neighboring lands who sought employment in Singapore provided the market for items such as the Songkok and the Hajj belt. The 6-month journey to Mecca was arduous as pilgrims had to travel on large sailing ships and steamships that were often packed to the brim, resulting in poor hygiene conditions. Outbreaks of diseases such as cholera and typhoid were common. Many were unable to complete the trip due to illnesses and poor weather conditions, while others did not manage to raise enough funds to embark on the trip. These people were humorously given the title “Haji Singapura”.

 

 

A headgear with rich history

 

Today, Singapore is no longer the center of pilgrim traffic as the advent of air travel has made travelling to Mecca easier. Consequently, the Songkok and other Hajj-related businesses here declined rapidly.

 

Today, Songkok makers like Abdul Wahab customize their Songkok for their customers and attempt to accommodate requests as much as possible. However, the basic process of making the Songkok remains the same, which is done by stitching layers of newspaper with an elaborately sewn cloth as the inner layer. Velvet is then used to cover the outer parts of the oval shaped Songkok. 

 

 

A pioneer in the Songkok business

 

The enterprising spirit of the Malay community and the vibrancy of trade here resulted in the active interactions and exchange of ideas. Haji Yusoff, a pioneer of the Malay community, capitalized on the advantage and became an expert in the business of Songkok and Tali Pinggang (hajj belt) in the 1900s. He monopolized the market in Singapore, in the process earning himself the nickname “Haji Yusoff Tali Pinggang” or “Haji Yusoff the Belt Merchant”.

 

Haji Yusoff and his descendants were the last occupants of Gedung Kuning in Kampong Glam. Gedung Kuning stands adjacent to the Istana Kampong Gelam, once the residence of Malay royalty in Singapore. It is also known as the “Yellow Mansion”, named after its yellow walls. It reflects European influence externally, while its internal layout was derived from the traditional Malay houses.

 

Gedung Kuning was built around 1846 for Tunku Mahmud, the younger son of Sultan Ali. Sultan Ali was the son of Sultan Hussein, who ruled Singapore with the British (East India Company) and the Temenggong in a tripartite arrangement.

 

In 1999, the Singapore government acquired Gedung Kuning and the Istana Kampong Gelam to form the Malay Heritage Centre. The Malay Heritage Centre opened in 2005 after restoration works were undertaken.

 

 

Songkok Maker

Mr. Abdul Wahab

 

Mr. Abdul Wahab started learning to make the Songkok since he was 4 years old. He took over his father’s business and now operates his own shop at Tanjong Katong Complex. His father was a pioneer in Singapore and dived into the Songkok business using funds he generated from the sale of his trishaw. The logo of the Mr. Abdul Wahab’s shop is exactly that, to signify the stoic determination and sacrifices his father made to start the Songkok business. The original location of the shop was at Geylang Old Market Block 5. Mr. Abdul Wahab was the only one out of his 10 siblings to show interest in taking over the Songkok business. Worried that the trade and his father’s business would be lost in future, he decided to take over the mantle from his dad.

 

Mr. Abdul Wahab is proud of the fact that his customers today range from babies as young as two weeks old to the elderly population. He takes special pride in his hand sewn Songkok, and the durability of his Songkok is evident as he shared that a customer came back to him for a replacement after wearing the same Songkok for 25 years.